By Esther Chilton
When I moved to Nottinghamshire three years ago, I’d never heard of Clumber Park and yet it’s National Trust’s most visited site. The Trust acquired it in 1946. When my partner suggested we visit, I was curious to find out what brought people to Clumber, especially as it doesn’t have a house.
Clumber is a Grade I listed park. It used to be part of the infamous Sherwood Forest, but in the early 18th century, the 3rd Duke of Newcastle-upon-Tyne was granted a licence to take part of it as a deer park for Queen Anne. It then became home to future Dukes of Newcastle (whose titles changed to Dukes of Newcastle-under-Lyne) for over three centuries.
The first Clumber House was built in the late 1760s. It was Palladian in style and designed by Stephen Wright. It survived two fires, though the later one in 1879 almost destroyed it. On both occasions, it was rebuilt. As Danielle Lander-Brown, the Collections and House Officer notes, “It was regarded as one of the finest non-Royal houses in the country.” The contents of the house have been described as lavish – with paintings by Rembrandt and Holbein, Indian marble tables, Venetian crystal chandeliers and silk damask covered walls.
Sadly, when the 7th Duke died in 1928, the family no longer spent much time at Clumber. When the 9th Duke was faced with a huge tax bill, he decided to sell the contents of the house, which were shipped all over the world, including to the Smithsonian and V&A museums. The house itself was pulled down in 1938. It’s said that even the stonework and drainpipes were sold. The duke planned to build a smaller house, but nothing ever came of it.
Although the house is gone, as soon as we drove through the impressive gates of this 3,800-acre estate, I started to see the draw of Clumber Park. The scenery is stunning. To reach the centre, you travel through the aptly named Lime Tree Avenue. It’s two miles in length, the longest stretch of its kind in Europe. The trees are a sight to behold in autumn, when the leaves change to rich reds and glorious golds.
As we neared the carpark, my eye was caught by the spire of The Chapel of St Mary the Virgin. It’s actually the third chapel to be built at the park. The first one was inside the house. The second was started by the 6th Duke, but after his death, it was deemed structurally unsound and abandoned. The 7th Duke wanted something grand and employed George Frederick Bodley, a leader of the Gothic Revival. The duke certainly got his wish as the chapel is impressive from afar and close up. The inside is just as breath-taking, with its ornate Vaseline glass lamps, hanging the length of the chancel and nave, the Gray and Davidson organ, with its 2180 pipes and three keyboards, and The Lady Chapel, containing an unusual Russian icon of Mary and the baby Jesus, gifted around 1892 by the people of Georgia.
The Pleasure Grounds offer walkers and cyclists a stunning vista. These gardens were originally laid out by the 2nd Duke in the late 18th century. They include exotic trees from North America, ornamental statues and two imposing temples – one Greek and one Roman, which are still in the grounds today. As Jago Moles, the Countrywide Manager explains, “They’re like a gigantic souvenir. They were designed to show off the fact that you’d been to both places.”
On a sunny day, your eye is drawn to the lake as light dances on the water. Four miles in length, it took fifteen years to build. The lake was designed to be admired, but it was also for fun. The duke built his own boat – The Lincoln – just so he could play battleships on the lake.
An ornamental bridge, made of limestone, arches over the lake. Originally, it was part of the driveway to the house. Built by Stephen Wright, its design was to impress. As Danielle explains, “It was all planned. The idea was for guests to come in from Drayton, down the hill and then they would pause and see the wonderful views – of the chapel and the house. It would open up the scene and show how big the estate was. It was all part of the grandeur.”
Clumber also boasts a walled kitchen garden, another must-see. As you walk through its gates, the first thing to catch your eye is the path, leading to the spectacular Glasshouse. At 451 feet, it’s the longest Glasshouse in the National Trust. Four acres in size, the walled kitchen garden was designed to feed twelve people all year round and supplied food for the duke, his family and guests. It’s one of the grandest surviving 18th century walled kitchen gardens in England. Today, there’s a mixture of productive and ornamental plantings. This includes the longest double herbaceous borders in the National Trust, and two national collections of rhubarb and apples.
I was amazed to learn that Clumber has its own village. Hardwick Village came to life in the 1850s. The 5th Duke wanted to create a village for the estate workers. As well as houses, there was a carpentry workshop, blacksmith’s forge, two schools, a post office and general store, and Hardwick Grange Farm, which is still a working farm. The beautiful houses can be privately rented.
The estate played its part in World War II. Apparently, the officers arrived expecting a grand house to use. They must have been very disappointed, but Clumber Park still had plenty to offer. Ammunition stores lined Lime Tree Avenue, the Land Army took the walled kitchen garden over and Nissen huts dotted the estate. Clumber was also a test site for Winston Churchill’s White Rabbit No.6, a secret military machine, which could dig enormous trenches. Churchill visited Clumber in 1941 to see one in action. The machines were deemed a success, but never used as the war went in a different direction than the trench warfare of World War I. In various places around the park, you can still see where rails were laid for transportation.
With over 230 different types of tree, and its vast acreage, which includes heathland and grassland, it’s no surprise that Clumber Park is a haven for wildlife. Over a hundred swans can be found there, along with at least four hundred geese. Herons, kingfishers, cormorants, squirrels, a rare spider, nine species of bat, deer and many different species of insect inhabit it.
Facilities for visitors include a gift shop, second-hand bookshop and numerous food and beverage outlets. The main café extends into the one remaining room of the house – the Duke’s Study, which gives glorious views of the lake. There’s also a Discovery Centre for families to learn more about the park and its habitats, and a Heritage Hub which displays a large model of Clumber House.
Rob Holder, the General Manager, says, “Clumber Park is a day out for everyone. It’s a very diverse estate.” They also hold events throughout the year and they’re looking to expand on these in the future.
After that first visit, I knew I was coming back to Clumber Park. It’s my go-to place whenever I’m feeling stressed. I might sit and read by the lake, treat myself to tea and cake in the café, or go for a walk through the woods. I always leave feeling calm and relaxed, knowing my next visit isn’t far away.
To find out more, visit the website: https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/clumberpark